I intend to have a look when my car is running. I think we going to have to disagree on this. I’m not reading some number on the timing light and the dial is set to zero, I’m reading a number on the damper. I can understand that if the light on a wasted spark system reads a spark every revolution it will double the rpm on it’s tach, and I can see that the light will flash on each revolution as opposed to every second, but I just can’t see why a light flashing at the same point on the timing marks would double the timing read out. I accept their instructions as authoritativeĪs you know you can time an XK engine using either #1 or #6 cylinder - they fire exactly 360 degrees apart so the timing mark on the damper is in exactly the same position each time the light flashes. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. If my light was supposed to read 20 degrees advance I would expect them to say that, and if my timing light said it, without a corresponding statement in the instructions I would be panicking. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Timing Light Xenon Inductive with 0 to 60 Degree Dial Advance Ignition Spark Checker at. ( This equates to the limp home mode of the EDIS system if the computer (Megajolt) fails.) The manual then says “Start your engine and check that the timing is exactly 10° BTDC with a timing light on cylinder #1.” I have a distinct recollection of doing this and then spending some time doing minute adjustments on the wheel to get it to that point. For base timing MSD recommends a standard timing light. That equates to 10 degrees BTDC and is the default timing setting with the PIP/SAW connection disconnected. If you are just interested in checking total timing over 3300 RPM, then a dial back should work, as the MSD box only provides multiple sparks under 3000 to 3300 RPM. The VR sensor is aligned exactly with the 5 th tooth from the missing tooth gap. The instruction manual I used to set up my EDIS is EDIS Ignition Control It talks about adjusting the position of the degree wheel/pickup position to set the timing. MSD sells this timing tape menu with clearly. (Image/Jeff Smith) It’s not necessary till purchase a dial-back timing light exactly to how the advance on to engine. Rev the engine, and twist the dial until the timing sign lines up with the nothing mark on the tab. I understand that a couple of guys have said in a blog or forum that a timing light will record twice the actual advance. Orthodox dial-back lights used a simplicity phone switch one back of the light. I used the dial back to set my base timing, then read the additional timing advance from both the centrifugal and vacuum advance on the engine timing marker. This makes it so easy to check timing at two different points quickly. Keep turning the dial until the timing mark lines up with the 0-degree mark, check to see how many degrees you've dialed in on the light, and that's your total timing.Ray I continue to have a problem with this. I had never used a dial back timing light before but now I know Ill never go back to a standard one again. Now, with a dial-back light, and the engine at 3000rpm, turn the dial clockwise and you'll see the timing mark on the balancer "retard" and move closer and closer to the 0-degree mark on the timing tab. Chances are your timing mark is way beyond the 12 degrees or so of your timing "tab" (the degree marker mounted to the front cover). With a conventional light, in order to check total timing, you'd disconnect the vacuum advance, rev the motor to 3000rpm (that's usually fast enough to ensure the distributor timing is maxed out), and you'd pull the trigger to check timing. A dial back light delays the strobe light in the amount of the # of degrees on the dial.
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